Thought I'd get you up to speed on what has been a lot of updates to lots of little spaces, but most notably, the addition of some much drooled-after shiplap!
*Disclaimer - I am fully aware that shiplap / planking is the 2015+ version of the 1980s paneling. Fashion and home decor seem to ebb and flow, and really just make old things new with little twists here and there. In a decade or so, shiplap will be ripped from the walls with disgust much like said paneling - or so I assume. Shiplap will see its demise, I'm sure. But for now, I am embracing it a little - and adding it only in areas - not whole houses as some do. I usually don't embrace trends that wholeheartedly. :)
With that said, in areas that I add shiplap, I do so tentatively and in a manner that I only hope will make eventual removal somewhat easy - time-consuming but easy enough. So here's a brief tutorial - since it's so easy to add.
2" brad nails
Air compressor and hose
Plywood ripped into strips
Then of course a saw of sorts - I usually have the hubs' miter saw handy...
I use 1/4" plywood wood ripped into 6" widths (the long way of the sheet). I've had Lowes do this a couple of times, but it totally depends on the person working and if they are willing to help or not. Otherwise, it's a necessary evil I beg the hubs for his help on... or I have had the local lumber yard do it for me as well.
I've used several kinds of plywood - all ranging in price from $13-$30 a sheet. The more expensive stuff is subfloor through our local yard - hence the premium price. I like that the side you paint is already white washed so it's easier to paint. Otherwise the cheapest available is the Luan style of plywood which has a very heavy red hue to it. If this is used, BE SURE to prime it, and prime it well, or the color WILL bleed through. Trust me - I've skimped on primer and paid for it.
****Please note - I've seen tutorials using MDF strips, and I wouldn't recommend it. It's cheaper yes, but MDF tends to buckle and bow much more so that real plywood given its composition. If you go that route, glue seems necessary, but I've also seen plenty of people having issues even then getting it to NOT bend off the wall.***
I use 2" brad nails... 1/2" is eaten up by the sheetrock, and 1/4" is eaten up by the plywood. This leaves about 1 1/4" of nail going into the studs - which should be just short enough to avoid hitting any electrical that'd be running through your studs.
I usually start at the ceiling - thereby getting the hard stuff done first, and leaving any ripped pieces needed low to the ground and most out of the direct line of sight. I'll be honest, I do not level my plywood, so sometimes the last piece may be a little off on gapping. This might make a necessary angled rip - as in one end might be 1" and the other end might be 2". I don't worry about it too much cuz it's never been off more than I can accommodate for in gapping. I've never had such crooked walls or anything to where my last piece has been off more than a 1/4" or so. Keep your gapping even all the way down, and you should be fine too.
Shove the piece up to the ceiling, and begin nailing (usually four brads per stud on the 6" plank) every 16" or so.
(Studs are 16" on center, so this means once you find one, from that point on, another will be 16" to the middle of the next one. This is NOT true for inside corners (since the 16" could have started from the other end of the room), or possibly above doors or windows since the framing could be different here.)
I do NOT use glue. This is where I'm planning a bit for the future! :) Should this become hideous, it'll be some simple ripping off of the plywood and nail pulling. There shouldn't be much, if any, sheetrock repair - or complete replacement for those that glue it on! I've done several areas in this manner, and the plywood is so light that it does not have any issues not staying nailed to the wall. The ripped strips don't bend and bow out from the wall anywhere near as much as full sheets would - so it's not necessary to glue - in MY opinion!
I know some people use one or two nickels as their means of gapping. This got super tedious for me to keep putting the nickels in and then holding steady on 8' long runs. I realized that the little tip on the nose of the nailer is almost the exact same size as the nickel... so I tack a spot, put the nose of the gun in between the planks, hold, and then tack the next stud. Much easier!
Usually around windows, I'll do cuts like this so I can work faster and save the rips for when the hubs is available again.
And much to the hubs' chagrin, I don't even cut the lengths to end on studs. I just add a couple extra nails to each end and continue on. This leaves much less waste, and I haven't had an issue with them pulling off of the walls. When I get to the end of a run, I'll use that remaining piece to start the next row - thereby lessening the waste as much as possible.
Oh then priming and painting makes it truly look Jojo inspired! :)
I use a jig saw to cut out outlets and light fixtures - this is usually quite simple too. You will have to loosen the screw for the outlet in order to get the plywood behind it. Otherwise the plate will obviously not go back on. Just be careful not to touch any live wires!
Before the planking...
Before the paint...
Just adds a little drama and a little character! :)
Pardon the difference in the decor... I'd had plans a looooooong time ago to do this tutorial and took pics during different intervals of construction!
Recap - a waaaaaaaaay before...
All painted up!
*If you do notice, it's taken me a loooooooong time to also get the hubs help on those final rips... :S
But those are done, so one day I'll get them up and painted too! LOL some things just take me lots of time to 110% complete. I'm a constant state of construction.
In case you're a little envious, yes that's a real, live (okay not *A*live but authentic) old horse collar. I found it at my parents' all ready to go to the dump. The color and natural weathering had me all heart eyes, and I couldn't pass it up. I'm also a weird lover of old junk...
And the other update to the living room, is the swap in of the wingbacks and the addition of a hand built bench. Since I lost my sitting room of a sun room to a nursery, I needed a place for the wingbacks since I love them so. Much rearranging later, they ended up here. I also needed another means for toy storage, since the former armoire was reconfigured back to a dresser for the boys' room makeover.
Enter elementary building skills!
It's seriously the simplest build ever. I made the dimensions coordinating to the widths of the boards I wanted to use... thereby avoiding any rips and therefore the hubs' help!
I did prepaint all the boards to save crawling into the cubbies 983 times. Then assembled with some wood glue and screws.
Oh it's rough hewn lumber, but it gets beaten on many many many times a day and by many hands and feet! So of course it's white and distressed!
I then added some little $7 bun feet from Lowes. I never did stain or paint them... I kind of like the raw look though!
I added $12 baskets from Target - ones that were exactly the size I needed!
And that's it! All the kids' toys downstairs fit into these three baskets. I've learned the less they have, the more content they seem. And the less hassle it is to clean up 83 times a day. :S
Kids don't need more stuff - they just need more you. I'm repetitively learning that motherhood is a constant dying of oneself and one's own selfishness. It humbles you and constantly demands you to have a servant's heart...